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So You Think You Want A Ferret? First, think about how a ferret would fit into your lifestyle, and then "ferret-proof" your home. -Ferrets are not rodents, they are a member of the Mustelide family. -Everything that could be moved by a ferret, must be kept above table height. They "steal" all kinds of things, remote controls, glasses, cell phones, plastic, paper, clothes, anything! If they can't move or hide it, they'll spend hours trying to! Babies, small children and ferrets DON'T MIX! Ferrets love dairy products and sweets, so they will bite the face or hands of children to get at the "left-overs". -Constant supervision is required when the ferret is out of his "Condo" (cage). The #1 killer of ferrets are sleeper sofas, reclining chairs, dish and clothes washers, dryers and sliding doors. -Ferrets must not be left unsupervised with other pets, even though they do well with cats and obedience trained dogs. -Ferrets do best between 60-85 degrees. Preferably in the house with you! -They are social animals and do better in groups. This is called a "Business" of ferrets, (like a herd of cattle). -They are escape artists! If their head can go through it, so can the rest of him! Any hole one inch or bigger is an escape route. They scratch at the bottom of doors and cabinets in an attempt to get to the other side. HOUSING & HYGIENE -They must have circulating air, DO NOT house in aquariums or pet carriers. A bare minimum of 24" x 24" x 30" one level wire rabbit cage will house only one ferret. It must be remodeled, as any cage must be. Preferably a three level, 24" x 36" x 48" or larger can be used. Line all floors with vinyl or tile, (so they don't loose a toe in the wire), and make all ramps out of plastic sewer pipes. -Litter...99% dust free cat litter, recycled newspaper pellets, or rabbit food can be used. Never use scoopable litter, or any cat litter that's not dust free, as ferrets can have respiratory problems from breathing the dust. 3 cornered litter pans are okay, but four cornered ferret litter pans seem to work better. Put a small amount of litter in it (making sure it's in all the corners). Change the entire litter everyday for better odor control. Also wipe down all the vinyl floors when you change the litter. -Bedding...do not use any type of shavings!! Can cause respiratory distress! Just lay rumpled up baby receiving blankets or tee shirts on floor and in ferret hammocks. Plastic baskets are great fun, as are plastic sweater boxes with a hole cut in the end. Change all bedding every two or three days for odor control, and wash all hammocks once a week. If you use this method, you'll hardly ever have to bathe your ferret! -Nails need to be kept short so they don't snag on bedding. Trim once a week, using cat or bird nail clippers. -Baths are really not necessary unless your ferret gets into something smelly or dangerous. Two or three days after a bath your little friend will start to smell really bad, because his body is working overtime to replenish the oils in his fur. So keep that litter and bedding clean! Health - Most ferrets that are purchased at pet stores are already spayed/neutered and descented. If a female is not spayed, she will die of Aplastic Anemia unless bred, and breeding should be left to the experienced breeders. -Vaccines are required every year. Fervac-D for distemper (which is 100% fatal in ferrets!), and IMRAB for rabies. Kits (baby ferrets) require three distemper shots by the age of 16 weeks. -Illness: Please have everyone wash their hands before handling your new friend, as ferrets easily catch the cold and flu from humans, and we can catch it from them! -Fleas can be non-existent by using Advantage for kittens. Also you can bathe your ferrets with a flea/tick shampoo made for ferrets. Do not bathe your ferret unless you absolutely have to, as this can cause dry, itchy skin. -Your vet should be called if your ferrets are sneezing a lot, (and you are using the proper litter), or won't eat, have blood in their stools, or stools are really runny, (and not due to diet), or anything else you're concerned about. Be aware that some vets do not treat ferrets, so call yours to find out if they do. Diet - Ferrets have a high metabolism, so they must have food and water in their "condo" at all times. -High protein 32% or greater, and 16% fat or greater, is the best diet for your friend. Corn should not be high on the list of ingredients, as they cannot absorb this easily. High quality kitten or ferret food is a must. You can also mix the two. -Treats should be given sparingly, as a lot of them can give the ferrets loose stools. A raisin a day is okay. A little bit of melon or fruit is okay, but very little! Ferretvite makes a great reward, and is good for them too. -Diet NO-NO: no Dairy products, (loose stools), Chocolate, (death is a possibility). Training - Coming to you is easy to train with a whistle, a squeaky toy, or your voice. Every time you get ready to put the ferrets back in their "condo" simply make the noise you chose, go get them and give them a few licks of Ferretvite off of your finger. Then put them in their "condo". This teaches them to come to you, so if they get outside, you can call them back. -Potty training is sometimes a little tough, you must find out which corner that your ferrets like to use, then place the litter-box there. You might need more than one litter box. When they are playing outside of their "condo", they sometimes get so busy that they will go in any corner of the house! Watch them and when you see them heading for a corner, you need to pick them up and put them in their litter-box until they go in there. -Harness and leash training is a must if you plan to take your friend with you outside. Use a harness especially made for ferrets, they will wriggle out of any other kind! Keep in mind that these helpful hints are only a few suggestions. Brought to you as a public service, by Jeanine Brawn of the Ferret Rescue at Mutt Management, Inc. RETURN |
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